Fleas

Animal Companions Column:

Freeing Your Pet From Flea Frenzy

by Hawaiian Humane Society

Published Sunday, September 5, 1999, Honolulu Advertiser

It's that contorted position that's a giveaway–back paw looped over front shoulder to top of head, followed by quick muzzle to forepaw and then sudden lurch of back paw to side of belly. Flea time! It can make for scratchy pet owners, too. While a few fleas can usually be handled easily, sometimes just by bathing your pet, a flea infestation can be miserable, even leading to anemia (a shortage of oxygen-carrying red blood cells) for your dogs and cats. Flea eradication can be time-consuming but well worth it in terms of the health and comfort of your scratching pet companions.

Flea infestation, especially during the warmer summer months that fleas so love, happens so fast because each flea lays 24 to 40 eggs daily. These little guys have four life stages: egg, larvae, pupa and adult. The eggs are laid on pets, but most fall off wherever your pets hang out: carpeting, bedding, grassy knoll. These eggs hatch into larvae after one to ten days, and then hit the pupa stage after feeding for five to 11 days. The new adult fleas usually emerge after seven to 14 days, but some pupae can survive up to a year. So even though you may be bathing your pet or pinching those adult fleas that you catch dive-bombing your pet, their offspring are readying themselves for another attack.

Controlling fleas needs to take place on several fronts: your pet itself and your pet's environment. Fortunately, recent dramatic advances in flea treatments have made control easier, but it's crucial to take flea-bound pets to the vet to be examined and treated. There are two major treatments: adulticides, which kill the adult flea, and insect growth regulators (IGRs) or insect development inhibitors (IDIs), which destroy the flea life cycle. Several of the adulticides, such as Frontline Top Spot and Advantage, come in liquid doses and are applied to your pet's skin between the shoulder blades. The medication then migrates over the animal's body.

Unlike adulticides, IGR/IDI treatments (such as Program, which comes in monthly tablet form) disrupt the flea life cycle, so that eggs don't make it to the adult stage. The downside is that not all of them kill existing adult fleas. Frontline, Advantage and Program, and similar medications, are available through your veterinarians. Other treatments, such as Bio Spot, are available over the counter, although they may not be as safe or effective as prescription medications. No matter which medication you use, consult your veterinarian, read instructions carefully and don't mix dog and cat products.

It's important to treat the environment while you treat the pet. First off, notice those places where your pet spends the most time, both inside and out. Vacuum and clean carpets, upholstered furniture, mattresses, cushions, and immediately dispose of the vacuum bag (fleas love them!) in a sealed plastic bag. Wash or destroy pet bedding. Mop wood, vinyl and tile floors, concentrating on grooves, cracks and baseboards as fleas are burrowing critters. If you use a fogger, find one that acts as both adulticide and IGR. It may be necessary to fog several times to route all fleas. Professional services, such as Fleabusters, can rid your home of fleas for one year with their nontoxic, single application treatment.

You'll also need to tackle the outside environment. Cut your lawns, remove garden debris and rubbish, rake leaves, and sweep porches, steps and lanais. Spray with a good, but mild, flea insecticide. Repeat your spraying until all potential fleas have passed through the four stages–every three to four days for approximately two weeks and every five days for the next five weeks.

While these steps for flea eradication may seem laborious, your pet companion will appreciate your efforts wholeheartedly. And who knows, maybe you'll go the whole summer long without scratching your own ankles!